On the boat out from Roonagh to go hiking Inishturk, I just can’t stop muttering it to myself.
Every time I visit this wonderful little island, I’m visited by the sweet opening verse from Nancy Spain, the popular ballad most famously sung by Christy Moore,
“Of all the stars that ever shone, not one does twinkle like your pale blue eyes.
Like golden corn at harvest time, your hair.
Sailing in my boat the wind gently blows and fills my sail.
Your sweet-scented breath is everywhere.”
Lying 15 km off Mayo’s wild west coast, Inishturk (Inisturk) is the county’s most beautiful and striking island. From its little sheltered harbour on the east side, the island rises to a maximum height of some 190m in the middle, before reaching its zenith at wonderful west-facing sea cliffs.
While the 5km marked walking trail up from the harbour turns left around the lake and swings back down by the surprising GAA pitch etched into the rocky landscape, we turn right.
Up the small steep hill we wander, to the ruined Napoleonic Tower on top. The views from this early 19th Century signal tower are to die for. The great thing about Inisturk (Inishturk) is that it is at the centre of the string of fabulous islands and magnificent mainland that marks out Mayo’s coastline from other parts of the Wild Atlantic Way.
[I have a post about all of Mayo’s Napoleonic Towers here]
From up at the ruined tower, you can look out at (N to S) Achill, Corraun, Clare Island, Nephin Beg mountains, Clew Bay, Croagh Patrick, Caher Island, the Sheeffry mountains, Mweelrea, Killary Harbour, Benchoona, Tully mountain, Inishbofin and Inishark. Arguably the finest panoramic view in Ireland.
If there is a heaven, then this is it.
Flora of this beautiful island includes what you might expect from a West of Ireland bog landscape, including Lousewort, Milkwort, Tormentil, Yellow Iris, both Common and Heath Spotted-orchids, Early Marsh-orchid, etc, and many species of the coast, including Sea Holly, Sea Thrift (aka Sea Pinks), Sea Campion, Common Centaury, etc.
One to look out for is the gorgeous St. Patrick’s Cabbage (Saxifraga spathularis; Cabáiste mhadra rua), pictured below and found in rock fissures along the trail.
We descend from this summit westwards, with the beautiful cliffs at the end of the island as our target. Bring your binoculars, as the views of all kinds of seabird, from Fulmar, Kittiwake and Puffin to Razorbill, Guillemot and (if you’re lucky) Peregrine Falcon are wonderful.
Buachaill Mór and Buachaill Beag are the fine sea stacks featured in the photo above.
Continuing along the coast, then turning inland, we follow a long stone wall before re-joining the trail we had earlier quit. From the pitch, we visit the tiny natural cove at Port an Dún and its virtually no-longer-distinguishable caiseal remains, before rambling along the narrow road back to the Community Club. Dinner and a beverage are enjoyed, while we discuss one of the great Mayo experiences that is hiking Inishturk.
Hiking Inishturk (Inisturk)
13 km; 5 hours with plenty of stops for birdwatching and taking it all in. Paradise!
Why not stay a night?
‘Turk boasts three B&Bs, which can be found on the island’s tourism website.
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