Barry’s Blog
Look Out Posts of County Mayo
During the early years of World War II, a series of Look Out Posts (LOPs) was constructed along the coast of neutral Ireland. In total, 83 of these little huts were put in place to watch out over the seas, report back to Army Intelligence HQ and, notably, to recover...
Napoleonic Signal Towers of Mayo
Also known simply as Napoleonic Towers, or Signal Towers, 8 of these structures were built by the British authorities in County Mayo during the first decade of the 19th Century. The late 18th and early 19th Century was a particularly active period in the fraught...
Clonfert Cathedral, a Medieval Masterpiece
Clonfert Cathedral is a difficult place to find, but a visit sure is worth it. Hidden in labyrinthine east County Galway, near the broad majestic Shannon, it was a foggy December morning when I laid eyes on this very special place. Decoration on the west doorway at...
Guided Walking Tour in Spain
They start with the kids and it’s wonderful. The colour is part and parcel of the tradition, with each group displaying its own version of the basic ensemble –tight trousers, bright top and broad black, stretchable waist support band. A castell is a human...
Killary Famine Walk at Rosroe
Leaving the N59 between Leenane and Kylemore, we turn right onto the minor road L5102, marked Tullycross, to head to the Killary Famine Walk at Rosroe. On the way, we pass Lough Fee and the former house of Sir William Wilde, father of Oscar. Beyond, at Salruck, stands...
Ancient Church at Kilcummin
The little ancient church at Kilcummin, near Killala in North Mayo, is well worth a detour. It was a beautiful crisp day when I visited in January. Kilcummin (not to be confused with Kilcommon, further west towards Belmullet) is a place of some historical importance,...
Day Out by Lough Conn
The beautiful Early Marsh Orchids greeted us by the sparkling lake shore at Errew. Early Marsh Orchid by Lough Conn We fancied a day out by Lough Conn and had come to discover the ruined medieval Augustinian Priory at the end of the wonderful peninsula that juts more...
Monasteries of the River Moy
Flowing just 103km from source to sea, the modest Moy isn't the longest river found entirely within Connacht. That title belongs to the Suck, which runs for over 130km before entering the Shannon below Ballinasloe. Along with its salmon fishery, however, it is the...
9 Great Beaches of County Mayo
A wild, windy and often wet coastal county, boasting particularly spectacular sea cliff landscapes, Mayo is also home to some of the finest beaches in Ireland. Caressed (more often, pounded) by the North Atlantic, 8 of these 9 great beaches of county Mayo offer...
Day Out in North Mayo
A Grand Day Out in North Mayo (in the car!) When I plan a day out in North Mayo, my mind usually pictures a great long hike along its spectacular ocean cliffs. But it’s sometimes fabulous to simply jump in the car and take in more of this little-visited but wonderful...
An Afternoon Walking in the South of France
The simple joys of an afternoon walking in the South of France ... Having exited our gorgeous forest track, a lovely quiet car-free road led us the last 500m into Varaire. As we dawdled by its cute little houses and their wonderful gardens of fig trees and flowers, we...
Coastline of County Mayo
The Spectacular Coastline of County Mayo From the Killary fjord in the south to the estuary of the River Moy in the north, the coastline of County Mayo is a magnificent mix of awesome cliffs, dry-stone walled fields, blanket bog, mid-sized mountains and stupendous...
Urlaur Priory in East Mayo
Urlaur Priory near Kilmovee, East County Mayo Dedicated to St. Thomas Aquinas, Urlaur Priory (Urlaur Abbey) was founded in the early 1430s during the last years of the pontificate of Martin V. This foundation was ‘irregular’, as no permission had been obtained from...
Keenagh Loop Walk in the Bogs of West Mayo
Keenagh Loop Walk If you’re looking for a walk that represents west Mayo well, without the extra effort of climbing a mountain, then Keenagh Loop Walk may fit the bill. Be sure to bring along at least one walking pole to test the ground’s solidity in front of you as...
Spanish Armada and Mayo
1588 - The Spanish Armada and Mayo In May 1588, King Philip II of Spain sent his armada of ships towards the English Channel, under the command of Alonso Pérez de Gúzman, Duke of Medina-Sidonia (a municipality near Cádiz in Andalusia). Of the 130 or 132 that departed...
Balla to Ballintubber Walk
From Round Tower to Abbey Our round towers and abbeys are among the most visible still extant reminders of early and medieval Christian Ireland. While the former date from the 9th to 11th centuries, what remain of our medieval abbeys tend to be from the 12th to 15th....
What Now for the Wild Nephin Farce?
Coillte has exited, so what now for the 'Wild Nephin' farce? Farce (n); a broadly humorous play based on … improbable situations; a ludicrous situation or action. [Collins] And so, just 8 years on, Coillte has exited stage left. Back in December 2009, Coillte’s...
Tales from the GR36 Walking Route in the South of France
Tales from the GR36 Walking Route in the South of France Marie d’Arles “Je suis ravie de rencontrer quelqu’un”. Marie d’Arles smiled out from beneath her poncho. Despite her petite frame, she was no lightweight. Marie was undertaking the full 752 km Via Podiensis, all...
11 Great West of Ireland Pubs
Great West of Ireland Pubs - A Selection Naturally, my bias ensures that 5 of these 11 great West of Ireland pubs are located in Mayo, but what else would you expect? The Irish pub can be such an alien concept to continental Europeans, especially the southern French I...
Guided Walking Holiday in the South of France
Guided Walking Holiday in the South of France Once her official character was demasked, Michèle was a hoot. In her capacity as receptionist and ticket seller at la Chapelle des Pénitents Noirs, she was as detached as any other French heritage site employee. She had no...
Achill Island Promontory Fort at Dun Bunnafahy
Achill Island Promontory Fort at Bun na Faiche (Dun Bunnafahy) A quick overview of my coastal Discovery Series maps of the County Mayo coastline * reveals 54 marked promontory forts. Doubtless, this is fewer than there are actually are, as I doubt if they've all been...
Croaghmoyle Booster Station Walk
Although not particularly impressive, this Croaghmoyle booster station walk is a pleasant 8km stroll near Castlebar that includes an easy climb on tarmac. I do it a few times each year in spring, just to get some km into the legs before hiking season. The...
Daly’s Hotel Castlebar Must be Saved
Standing on the beautiful Mall, a treasure any town would desire, is the terribly dilapidated Daly's Hotel Castlebar. The Mall is Castlebar's jewel, a lovely small park that was once the cricket ground of the then landlord of the town, Lord Lucan (Bingham). Boasting...
Importance of Connecting with Nature
Are we and our kids spending too much time indoors? I think the answer is clear. While today's electronic devices bring many great advantages of connectivity and learning, they are contributing to a serious diminishing of our connection with the outdoors. There can be...
Ox Mountains Ramble – Doomore to Crockavreen, a Sligo Slog
Ox Mountains Ramble - Doomore to Crockavreen What a slog that was. Having consulted Bing Maps online and my OSI 1:50,000 Sheet 24, I reckoned this eastern Ox Mountains ramble would take me maybe 5 hours. After all, the successive points to be hiked would be only 272...
Mweelrea – Hiking Mayo’s Magical Mountain
Mweelrea Connacht's highest mountain, Mweelrea offers a great day's hiking. The finest mountain in the West of Ireland, Mweelrea can be tackled along a number of routes, my favourite being anti-clockwise from the southern end of Doo Lough over the mountain to Delphi...
Hiking Inisturk – The Most Beautiful of Mayo Islands
When I think of wonderful little Inisturk, I'm reminded of the sweet opening verse from Nancy Spain, the popular ballad most famously sung by Christy Moore, "Of all the stars that ever shone, Not one does twinkle like your pale blue eyes. Like golden corn at harvest...
Bellacorick Bog Loop
Bellacorick Bog Loop - 13kms of flat, easy walking While the first and last 1km is uninspiring, passing along a stony track shared by times with heavy machinery involved in the installation of a new wind farm, the recently designated Bellacorick Bog Loop both...
Enjoy 90 Seconds of a Windy Lough Adanacleeveen
Lough Adanacleeveen is a very lovely corrie lake below Slieve Carr, the highest peak in the Nephin Beg mountains of Mayo. Get your hiking boots on some day and wander up to this very remote part of these mountains. Just pick a rock, sit down, switch off and take it...
Review : Wild Nephin Map from EastWest Mapping
2015 saw the publication of its Wild Nephin Map by EastWest Mapping, employing a 1:25,000 scale to give greater detail than the 1:50,000 scale of OSI's Discovery Series. So as a Christmas present to myself, I went out and bought it here in the Castle Book Shop. To be...
Wildlife Tour Poland 2015 – Trip Report
What a great week we had on our Wildlife Tour Poland during May. Wow, how time flies and I only writing up my report now! For me, the highlight was unquestionably on the double. First, we had Marsh Harriers passing food while flying above a little rushy marshland....
Exposing the “Wild Nephin” Charade
Wild Nephin, states Coillte, would "involve taking 4,400 hectares out of ... commercial forest operation and rewilding this land, improving habitat and landscape quality over a 15 year period. The eventual intention ... protecting a landscape of scale with functioning...
Round Towers of County Mayo
Of the 60-odd Irish round towers remaining, in various states of repair, 5 are to be found in County Mayo. Round towers are believed to have been built around the 8th to 12th Centuries and were most probably bell towers associated with the church that would have stood...
Farbreiga – A Hill with a Strange Name
Sixteen km north of Castlebar stands the modest but pleasant hill of Farbreiga. Though only reaching 395m high, a hike up this oddly-named hill offers wonderful views in all directions, especially eastwards over Loughs Conn and Cullin - two of our great western lakes....
Maumturks & Bens Weekend
Join our small group hiking the Maumturk and Twelve Bens mountains of Connemara this May bank holiday weekend. The Inagh Valley in Connemara is a wonderful spot for hiking, with the Maumturk mountains to one side and the Twelve Bens to the other. Beautiful Lough Inagh...
North Mayo Cliffs with Ravens and Choughs
Walking the spectacular North Mayo cliffs is an exhilarating but tough 2-day hike. From the tiny village of Belderg, heading west, this is an area you will have all to yourself. Apart, that is, from the entertaining Ravens and Choughs. The cliffs around here are just...
And so to Winter …
I must admit that I've no problem with winter. In fact, I'm a fan. I kind of think it suits a place like the West of Ireland. Rather than grumble about the summer showers (of which, by the way, there were precious few during 2014), the rain of wintertime just feels...
Poland Birdwatching & Wildlife Tour, May 2021
I'm delighted to announce my Poland Birdwatching & Wildlife Tour, for May 2021, to the truly magnificent National Parks of Biebrza and Bialowieza, in eastern Poland. Provisional Dates : May 8 - 15, 2021 (dependent on flight schedules, as yet unannounced)Price :...
Often, It’s the Simple Pleasures…
While we all love to view the spectacular sights and experience the wonderful places, often it's the simple pleasures that we enjoy the most. Like sitting on a rock, in silence, and watching the seals go about their daily routines. Or sharing a forest track with a...
Autumn in the West
I've always loved autumn. As is my wont when I have a bit of spare time, I recently went to a wood I know near Lough Key Forest Park to look for some deer. The last time I had been really lucky, spotting four female Fallow Deer. That was back in summer. They were...
Aasleagh Falls to Drummin Village
Aasleagh Falls is a tiny but celebrated waterfall at the head of the Killary, Ireland's only true fjord, in south County Mayo. The very beautiful Erriff River tumbles down the couple of metres, before babbling over rocks and into the sea just beyond. Come to Aasleagh...
St Kevins Way in Wicklow
St Kevins Way in Wicklow was the target as I left Mayo in the dead of night recently. A supposed pilgrim's path, St Kevins Way travels some 25 km from Hollywood in the east of the county, over the Wicklow Gap and down into Glendalough, the great monastic city of the...
Corraun Peninsula – Between Island and Mainland
Corraun is kept attached to the Irish mainland by rocky boggy land to its east, barely 800 m wide. Off its western shore, meanwhile, a channel just 150 m wide holds Achill Island at bay. The Corraun peninsula, 99% surrounded by water, may as well be an island in its...
Bangor Erris to Slieve Carr
Rather than simply moving along The Bangor Trail and then veering left, while out for a hike last week, I decided to leave the village of Bangor Erris, cross over the modest summits of Knocklettercuss and Maumykelly and head for the peak of wonderful Slieve Carr...
Hedge Life at our Mayo Home
Our hedge gives us great joy, especially during spring and early summer. As much as I’d love to live out in the wilds of Mayo, maybe under a mountain or by a lake, with a wooded area nearby, unfortunately this isn’t the case. At my semi-urban home, the hedge...
Raftery the Poet | Raifteirí an File
Raftery the Poet, of 19th Century Mayo, was blind from childhood and spent his life playing tunes on the fiddle, creating and singing songs as he wandered the West of Ireland. Born in Killeden, near Kiltimagh in east Co. Mayo, around 1779, Raftery would lead a nomadic...
Fáilte Ireland Video for the Wild Atlantic Way
View the Fáilte Ireland video promoting the newly designated Wild Atlantic Way - a 2,500 km touring route down the west coast of Ireland. You can also read my blogpost about the Wild Atlantic Way. To discover some of this amazing coastline on foot, in Mayo and...
Towerhill – A Ruined Mayo Mansion
Built by Isidore Blake at the end of the 18th Century, Towerhill was a very fine “Big House” in Mayo. Standing 6 bays wide and 3 bays deep over basement, the house was reputedly built on the site of an old burial ground and church dedicated to St. Patrick near...
Wild Nephin – Wilderness or Wasteland ?
Wild Nephin is the title given to Coillte’s project to 'rewild' a large area of blanket bog and plantation forest to the east of the Nephin Beg Mountains of northwest Mayo. The State-owned forestry company aims to 'create' Ireland’s first wilderness over the next 10 –...
Corrannabinnia
I like Corrannabinnia very much. Let’s make that clear from the start. At 714 m and the second highest point of the Nephin Beg range, Corrannabinnia is surely one of the highest peaks in Ireland not to be named in OSI Discovery series maps. Strangely, lower points on...